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3 astuces simples pour choisir une chaussure en cuir de qualité

Comment reconnaître une chaussure en cuir de qualité ? Cette question figure probablement dans le top 3 des plus posées par ses clients et amis à Norbert Bottier. Evidemment, rien ne remplace 35 ans d’expérience et de pratique, mais il y a tout de même quelques astuces qui vous permettront de discerner un cuir de qualité.

A l’essayage : comment repérer un cuir de qualité en un test simple

En matière de chaussures comme dans la vie en général, lorsque l’on cherche la qualité, il faut souvent commencer par savoir écarter tout ce qui est mauvais. Pour ce faire, voici un test facile et rapide qui vous permettra de savoir tout de suite que vous n’avez pas affaire à un véritable cuir de qualité, quoi que vous en dise le vendeur qui tient absolument à vous vendre une paire de souliers.

Lorsque vous essayez vos chaussure en magasins, articulez votre pied de manière exagérée en appuyant sur la pointe. Ce geste va naturellement former un pli au centre de la chaussure. Pas de panique : pli est tout à fait normal, même pour un cuir de très bonne qualité. Ce qui compte, ce sont les marques qu’il va laisser sur le cuir lorsque vous aurez remis votre pied à plat.

Commencez par regarder ces marques. Sur un cuir de qualité, elles doivent rester peu profondes. Ensuite, passez le doigt à l’endroit de la pliure. Si vous sentez un léger dédoublement de la matière, il est très probablement l’heure de vous sauver. Vous feriez une très mauvaise affaire en achetant cette paire de chaussures ! Au bout de quelques ports, vous y verrez apparaître d’affreuses boursouflures.

Un cuir de mauvaise qualité

Il suffit de plier un peu ce cuir pour sentir la matière se dédoubler

Ces bourrelets irréversibles vous apporteront la preuve ultime d’un cuir de moyenne ou très mauvaise qualité.

Le conseil de Norbert :

NorbertRien ne vaut la pratique ! Pour vous former à ce type d’expérience et savoir reconnaître efficacement un cuir de qualité, je vous conseille vivement de vous exercer à un moment où vous n’avez pas besoin de chaussures. Prenez une heure pour aller flâner dans les magasins, essayez des chaussures qui vous plaisent, comparez les cuirs, voyez quel type de pli vous obtenez sur une paire bon marché et sur une chaussure de luxe… Vous ne ressentirez pas la pression de l’urgence de l’achat. Ainsi, lorsqu’il faudra acheter à toute vitesse une nouvelle paire de richelieu pour le mariage de votre frère, ou pour un entretien pas pris au dépourvu !

Attention : avec le temps, même un cuir de qualité finit par adopter des plis. On les appelle des plis d’aisance, et ils proviennent simplement de l’effet de votre articulation métatarso-phalangienne sur la tige de votre chaussure. Ce sont même ces plis qui donnent toute son identité à une vraie, belle chaussure en cuir de qualité. Utilisez des embauchoirs, cirez régulièrement et bien vos souliers : avec le temps, leur plis d’aisances discret indiqueront aux connaisseurs que vous savez apprécier à sa juste valeur et entretenir un cuir de qualité.

L'articulation metatarso-phalangienne

L’articulation metatarso-phalangienne

Pour des chaussures en cuir de qualité, faites attention au montage

Une chaussure en cuir de qualité, c’est aussi une chaussure adaptée à vos besoins. En effet, il est très important de choisir des chaussures possédant un type de montage fait pour l’utilisation que vous leur réservez.

Par exemple, si vous avez besoin de chaussures robustes pour accompagner vos enfants en promenade le week-end, pour courir à travers les sous-bois pleins de feuilles mortes et de flaques de boue, une paire de chaussures au montage soudé risque très vite de montrer ses limites. En effet, ce genre de montage est bien trop léger (et pas assez étanche) pour ce genre d’aventure.

Il est donc important de déterminer vos besoins avant de trouver la construction adaptée. Voici quelques conseils, du plus léger au plus robuste :

  • Le montage soudé est réservé aux chaussures d’été à la semelle très fine et non débordante, n’ayant jamais à supporter les intempéries. Il apportera une souplesse et une légèreté unique à vos souliers.
  • On choisit le montage « Blake » du nom de son inventeur, pour des chaussures fines dont la semelle ne déborde pas trop. Ce type d’assemblage permet de conserver une souplesse convenable, mais sera plus résistant. Il est préférable de faire poser un « patin » sur vos semelles Blake, afin de protéger leur couture dès le départ, cette dernière est en effet réalisée avec un seul fil.
  • Vient ensuite le cousu « Goodyear » du nom également de son inventeur « Charles Goodyear Jr ». Ce montage, bien plus résistant que les deux précédents, vous apportera une satisfaction sans faille. Sa couture cachée est réalisée à l’aide d’une machine à deux aiguilles, ce qui la rend particulièrement résistante et d’une seconde couture dite “petits points” Ce montage s’adapte parfaitement aux chaussures de ville comme les Richelieu, Derby, Brogues, Mocassins et Bottines, pourvues d’une semelle double ou simple.
Cousu Goodyear

Cousu Goodyear

  • Pour finir, le montage « Norvégien » est le plus robuste de tous, il possède les caractéristiques du montage « Goodyear », auxquelles s’ajoute une dernière couture latérale. Elle lie le mur de la première, l’empeigne et la trépointe à la tige. Ce montage est réservé aux chaussures et bottines tout-terrain, celles qui vous accompagneront de nombreuses années et vous seront toujours fidèles, tant que vous leur apportez les soins nécessaires. rajouter la photo de jean M du Norvégien
Cousu norvégien

Cousu norvégien

Les finitions d’un véritable cuir de qualité

Vous avez déjà mis la main sur une belle paire, dont vous avez constaté que le cuir ne marque pas trop ?  Son montage est adapté à vos besoins ? Pour être sûr qu’il s’agit d’un cuir de qualité, il ne vous reste plus qu’à la regarder attentivement. Un beau cuir peut être satiné, plus ou moins mat ou brillant selon vos préférences. Mais ses reflets se doivent toujours d’être beaux et profonds et son toucher doit être soyeux.

Mais soyez sur vos gardes : certains fabricants imitent par exemple, l’apparence d’un cousu « Goodyear », alors que les chaussures qu’ils proposent  sont en fait soudées. Parfois ils proposent des peausseries maquillées pour obtenir une finition très brillante et flatteuse pour essayer de compenser les deux premiers points.

Ici encore, il y a des moyens de ne pas se laisser duper lorsque l’on est à la recherche d’un cuir de qualité.  La lisse de la chaussures doit être satinée, voire légèrement brillante, mais en aucun cas elle ne doit vous éblouir. Pour être sûr d’obtenir un cuir de qualité, il est préférable de choisir une finition discrète, mais plus dense dont on peut voir les différentes couches de « déforme » lustrées. Si le brillant est trop présent, c’est que vous avez à faire à une finition au pistolet avec des produits très bon marché. Vos chaussures ne doivent pas avoir l’apparence d’une voiture volée ! On doit pouvoir apprécier la transparence des matières.

Faites aussi bien attention aux semelles de vos chaussures : elles-aussi doivent présenter un cuir de de qualité ! Les semelles sont souvent un bon indicateur de la qualité générale d’une paire. Si leur cuir affiche des signes de faiblesse, s’il n’a aucun brillant et n’est pas soyeux au toucher, c’est probablement que vous n’avez pas affaire à une chaussure en cuir de qualité véritable.

Voici une chaussure que nous a apportée un client : le cuir, trop sec, a vite fait des bourrelets et commencé déjà à se fissurer là où les plis sont les plus profonds. Elle vient pourtant d’une (très) prestigieuse enseigne parisienne.

La chaussure de notre client

La chaussure de notre client

Le mot de la fin de Norbert Bottier

Après toutes ces explications qui, nous l’espérons, vous auront apporté un peu de lumière, gardez bien à l’esprit qu’une paire de chaussure est une somme de détails et d’éléments choisis avec patience et respect, en fonction de l’usage que souhaitez en faire. C’est avec ce souci que nous travaillons, chez Norbert Bottier, dans l’objectif de mettre à votre service nos années d’expérience.

Mais cette expérience ne s’acquiert qu’au rythme des tentatives, souvent ponctuées d’échecs dans les premiers temps. Ainsi, même armé des meilleurs conseils, il y a fort à parier que vous fassiez quelques erreurs d’estimation lorsque vous commencerez à essayer de discerner de vrais bonnes chaussures de qualité en magasin. Que cela ne vous dissuade surtout pas d’essayer et, surtout, en cas de doute : n’hésitez pas à nous poser une question en commentaire !

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